For best results, you will need a camera with a bulb setting, or long exposure capability, tripod, 1-2 rolls of film and a telephoto lens (depending on your position to the display).

Since you don't know exactly when the fireworks will explode you will need to hold the camera shutter open for a minimum 3 seconds. Many point and shoot cameras don't offer a long exposure feature. Many automatically use a long exposure in dark conditions and a slow film speed (refer to your owners manual to find out the maximum exposure time). If you have a Pentax IQ Zoom 200mm for instance, your lens fully extended (zoomed) at 200mm Your maximum aperture is automatically set at f/11. Then couple that with a slow film like ASA 50, your camera if it were pointed at the dark ground, with the flash off, would automatically give you a long exposure time by design. You then halfway depress the shutter and you're lock in. Make sure you're in focus though.

Some point and shoots have an auto-exposure lock (AE-Lock), though almost all will lock exposure if you halfway depress the shutter.

Most SLR cameras with manual exposure mode have a "bulb" setting. This allows you to open and subsequently close the shutter by pressing the release button.

Do not hand-hold your camera. Use remote release or self timer.

F/8 is the preferred aperture setting. Despite the low light, use slow film for better color saturation. I use Fuji Velvia ASA 50. Also by using a fine grain/ low ASA film, it will tell your camera automatically that you need a long exposure time, if you're using a point and shoot or an SLR in program mode. Do make sure the shutter speed is at least a 3 seconds so AE Lock on something dark.

Waterfronts are good settings, as you may include the reflections on the water in your composition. Cityscapes, landmarks, or people add context, though will appear as silhouettes unless they are illuminated. To illuminate people in the frame use the rear flash sync function. That will allow long exposure times and the flash will fire at the end of the exposure. You can also manually fire the flash with your "test" button, but your subject should be within 10 feet. If possible find yourself an elevated position upwind so the smoke won't obscure the images. Select a lens (telephoto zoom is the most practical) that will fill the frame with trails. If you shoot wider you can always crop and you'll be sure to include what you want, especially in the finale.

To photograph the fireworks with an SLR using the bulb setting, depress shutter release (preferably via cable release or remote), wait for some bursts, then depress shutter release again. For best results, spend a lot of film to get a few good shots. Try different apertures (f8 is a sure thing, stay under f/11) and different focal lengths. Include only a few bursts, as too many will look busy (more is less). To reduce exposing your film exposure to ambient light, cover the lens between bursts.